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March, 2005

Winter 2004 - 2005 in the Vineyard - According to Rudy

If you live in California, you already know that we received a lot of rainfall this winter. That's a good thing as our reservoirs are full and the ground has soaked up a lot of water. At Stone Corral Vineyard in the Edna Valley we see the benefits of the rain in the tremendous growth of our cover crop and only a minor negative in the form of erosion along some of the roads winding through the vineyard. Until this winter, the cover crop was never tested in terms of erosion control, but in fact it held up beautifully. Only in the roads did we see erosion. We are learning where the water travels when it does not soak into the ground. By next year we plan to install drain caldrons to assist in moving water off of the vineyard in hopes that the roads will stay intact.

Generally, when the growing season is preceded by high levels of rainfall, we see good vine growth and the potential for higher yields. As of mid-March, Mother Nature had dropped around 36 inches of rain on our fields in the Edna Valley. Furthermore, the winter was fairly cool with temperatures in the 40's and 50's which has allowed the vines to remain dormant. Two years ago during a warm winter some of the vines on the south facing shallow soils woke up in January and started to grow. This resulted in very poor fruit set and low to no crop - quite discouraging. The other day I ran into Rudy Romero, vineyard manager for Talley Farms, at Stone Corral Vineyard and he explained to me with great pride the success of the cover crop. "It's growing better as the soils become stronger from the yearly additions of compost and we have succeeded in delaying bud break by keeping the soil cooler from the shade created by the cover crop." He also mention that he is working on putting in a special permanent cover crop directly under the vine row that is a low grower and will alleviate the need to weed by hand or run the in-row-tiller through the vineyard.
 

Wine & Spirits magazine rates 2002 Petite Sirah Thomann Station - 91 points

In the January 2005 issue, Wine & Spirits magazine reviewed the 2002 Petite Sirah and stated "You could curse this wine when it stains your black sweater. You could try to dismiss it as a cheap date with a hamburger. But how could you not give in to the delicious burst of fruit? And you have to admit, there are some fine, stony tannins behind all the juice. Put this away for ten years, and it may turn out to be much more than a sweet, immediate pleasure." Personally, I like the wine for its boysenberry notes and robust tannins. 
 

So what is the story behind Petite Sirah? Is it Petite Sirah or Syrah?

There is an excellent article written by Steve Pitcher in the August/September 2003 issue of The Wine News that helps explain the origin of Petite Sirah and that it is in fact a different grape variety from Syrah. The article states that the durif grape from France's Rhone Valley is petite sirah and has been widely known in the California wine industry as such since at least the mid-1970's. It also talks about the work that Dr. Carole Meredith of the Department of Viticulture and Enology at U.C. Davis had done through DNA identification and that she has clearly shown Petite Sirah's true identity as a cross of an obscure southern French grape called peloursin and true syrah.

According to the article, the grape we've always called petite sirah was discovered around 1880 by Dr. François Durif, a French nurseryman working at the University of Montpellier in the south of France. The article also noted that in almost all American reference books of the time, the name was wrongly spelled "Duriff."
Today there are limited plantings of Petite Sirah in the Isère and Ardêche regions of the Rhône Valley and in Palette, a tiny appellation in Provence.

When I worked at Louis Martini winery in the late 1970's and early 1980's we blended Petite Sirah into Zinfandel. It was such an impressive wine to those of us working in the cellar that we often wondered why it was not bottled on its own. Well, 20 years later, I am doing just that. My current version, from Louis Martini's Napa Valley vineyard, is from the 2002 vintage and it's a beauty. The wine is really impressive for its dense, inky purple-black color, and mouth filling soft tannins. It has ripe blue-fruit aromas very much like blueberry and blackberry, with traces of violet flower and black pepper; and it is rich and flavorful on the palate. It is such a showy wine that it may be most appreciated accompanied simply by cheese and a baguette.
 

World of Pinot Noir 2005 - Another Great Event

The fifth annual World of Pinot Noir took place March 5 and 6 in Shell Beach. The event offers seminars, tastings, luncheons and dinners with emphasis on Pinot Noir from around the world. I really enjoy events like this that bring together some truly extraordinary wine people, offer an environment for learning and showcase beautiful Pinot Noirs during lunch and dinner.

Preceding the public event on the 5th and 6th, the winemakers meet for a two day blind tasting of 2004 Pinot Noir taken from barrels with the purpose of "teaching us something from the most recent vintage". For example, one thing that I learned was a simple technique to reduce the level of alcohol in wine. As winemakers, we are under pressure from the press and the market to produce wines with abundant flavor concentration. Consequently, there is a trend in the industry to pick late for ripe flavors, but unfortunately the high sugar levels lead to high alcohol levels and in my opinion wines that are out of balance and not food friendly. During the vigorous part of the fermentation of Pinot Noir when the must is warm, by simply leaving the tank open or covered with mosquito netting, some of the alcohol is allowed to volatilize out of the tank. Traditionally, I cover my fermenters with a plastic sheet stretched over a large plastic ring - I think this next vintage I will have an additional set of covers made out of mosquito netting to use during the heat of fermentation.
 

The 2002 Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay honored as Top 10 Chardonnays of the Year

Under the heading "more good news from Wine & Spirits magazine", in their April, 2005 issue they rate the 2002 Bien Nacido Chardonnay 92 points. Out of 610 chardonnays tasted over the past year this one was among the Top 10 and was featured in a two page spread! Only three other wines had higher scores. Here's what they said - "Stephen Dooley preserved the fresh complexities of Bien Nacido fruit in this chardonnay, in scents of apple blossom, in flavors of pear and peach, in the satisfying contrast between an austere structure and rich texture. All the dry, gentle fruit would fill in the grain of a thick cut veal chop; or age this and let the flavors develop further."
 

Wine Subscription Program, aka "Wine Club"

We are really excited about our new "wine club" program that we started last December. Since we do not have a tasting room, this is a great way to receive the Stephen Ross and Flying Cloud wines on a regular basis and enjoy a discount. Through the wine program, subscribers will receive three shipments of four bottles each per year. The shipments will average $75, exclusive of tax and shipping, which reflects a 20% discount from suggested retail. Please see the outline of the program on the order form included in this mailing.
 

PinotReport rates 2002 Pinot Noirs 91 & 92 points

In the December, 2004 issue of PinotReport, a west coast publication dedicated to Pinot Noir, the Bien Nacido Vineyard scored 92 points and the Edna Valley bottling scored 91 points. "This is a bigger style than I'm used to from Steve Dooley at Stephen Ross; still it has the terrific flavors and nuance that you always get. This wine needs some time in the bottle and in the glass."
 

Upcoming Events - 2005

  • March 29 - High Museum Auction, Atlanta, Georgia
  • April 14 - Wine Attic - Taste with the Winemaker, 5:30 p.m., 822 13th Street, Paso Robles, CA, call 805.227.4107 for information
  • April 23 - Stephen Ross Barrel Adopter Dinner, San Luis Obispo, CA
  • May 6 - Great Gatsby - Taste with the Winemaker, 5:30 p.m., 1750 El Camino Real, Grover Beach, CA, call 805.489.0297 for information
  • May 4 through 8 - San Luis Obispo Wine & Food Festival, San Luis Obispo, CA. Contact the San Luis Obispo Vintners at 805.541.5868 or www.sanluisobispowines.com for information
  • July 14 through 17 - Central Coast Wine Classic, Shell Beach, CA. Call 805.544.1285 for information