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Winter 2001 Newsletter

Stone Corral Vineyard Launches a New Era

Although Steve Dooley spends quite a bit of time in the vineyards where he gets his grapes, these days he's devoted much of his time to developing his own vineyard in the Edna Valley.

He's leased 10 premium acres from Talley Vineyards and is devoting his first vineyard venture to growing Pinot Noir. Like much of the land becoming premium vineyards in the Edna Valley, Dooley's plot started out as a cow pasture. "There used to be a stone corral there, from the days when this was home to a herd of cows," laughs Dooley. "I think Stone Corral Vineyard is a perfect and descriptive name!"

At press time, Dooley will have been working on the vineyard for about eight months. In 2000, the vines were ordered, the land was ripped to a depth of 36 inches, soil amendments were applied, and plumbing for the irrigation system was installed. During the month of January the stakes, posts, and trellis systems will be installed. "I'm very pleased to say that the vineyard is moving along quite well, and that we haven't removed any trees," says Dooley.

The vines will be planted in March, and according to Dooley, they are very special. "We ordered the plants a year ago, and they are made to my specifications," he says. "The vines were grafted last spring on a bench top from dormant bud-wood and rootstock, the grafts are given time to heal, and then planted outside in a nursery. We chose bud-wood from Talley's Rosemary's Vineyard, as well as three new clones from Dijon, France. In March 2001, the dormant grafted vines will be dug up from the nursery and planted at Stone Corral."

This method is the longest and most expensive way to get vines, but Dooley says it's the best way to ensure the quality of the vine. "By planting them in the actual ground and letting them grow, we're assured that when the vines are delivered they are all alive and healthy."

When asked why he's decided to get into the vineyard business now, Dooley says that the planets aligned to create the perfect opportunity. "I've always wanted a vineyard of my own so I could have control over the process," he says. "I had been looking around for a good opportunity, and when the Talleys approached me about this property it was a no-brainer. They are some of the best wine growers I know. The Talleys will manage the vineyards."

Dooley believes that lower yields produce superior fruit and wines with excellent flavor, so he plants to keep close tabs on the amount of grapes he produces at Stone Corral. Dooley is getting his hands dirty in the soil, but don't expect any fruit until 2003. "Winemaking is never an instant gratification business," says Dooley. "But I'm very excited about the wines this vineyard will eventually produce."

Monte Rosso Vineyard Yields Remarkable Wines from Historic Fruit
by Bethany Zepponi

On a mountain north of Sonoma known for its rich red soils, lies a vineyard with fruit as complex as the history through which it has grown. The Monte Rosso Vineyard, purchased by the Louis Martini family in 1936, was planted in 1880, and thrives today under the family's careful management. Stephen Ross Wine Cellars is one of only six wineries in the world that has access to Zinfandel grown in this historic vineyard.

It is in good company. Wineries such as Biale, Ravenswood, and Rosenblum -- some of the best Zinfandel producers in the country -- also use this coveted fruit to make highly desirable wines.

"I knew I wanted to use fruit from Monte Rosso when I was driving through the vineyard in 1996," says Dooley. "So taken by the beauty of the gnarled old vines, I had to stop my truck, get out and just admire it. I immediately began taking steps to acquire as much of the Zinfandel as I could get my hands on."

The plot he was most interested in was contracted out that year, so he was forced to wait. The next year, however, he was able to acquire the grapes from two acres, and his love affair with the Monte Rosso Zinfandel began.

The reason for the quality of his Monte Rosso Zin, he says, is that the vines are extremely old. "Old vine Zinfandels are simply better. The established root systems mean better consistency. There's less fruit on each vine, which makes the fruit extremely concentrated in flavor and aroma."

Old vines are also grown different These days, when you drive through the wine regions of the Central Coast or Napa and Sonoma Valleys, you'll see miles of meticulously staked and trellised vineyards. The Monte Rosso Zinfandel, planted long before the days of high yield, is head trained and spur pruned. You can recognize the difference right away. "The vines look less like espalier and more like freely growing orchard," says Dooley. "There are no posts, stakes, or wires, and the vines are trained more like roses, with short branches that radiate out. The fruit is very open to the sunlight."

Another noticeable trait of the Monte Rosso Vineyard results from its altitude. According to Dooley, the vines sit at about 1200 feet, meaning they almost always higher than Sonoma's relentless fog. "It's a relatively cool area near Sonoma, but since it's higher than the fog, the fruit gets more sunshine, which is good for plant growth and development."

Since Monte Rosso's yields are so low, Stephen Ross Monte Rosso Zinfandel is a rare commodity indeed. The 1999 vintage is only 150 cases , and will be available to newsletter subscribers on April 1, 2001. The wine's history lends itself to interesting conversation, and the flavor of the wine speaks for itself.

Up to His Elbows in Lees

When the fall harvest is over, winter brings winemakers a much needed rest period; the wine is now doing most of the work on its own. But there's still one process that requires weekly attention: stirring the lees in the Chardonnay.

"Stirring the lees" refers to the process of mixing the fine grape solids and yeast in the wine while it's in the barrel. "There are a few reasons winemakers stir the lees," says Steve Dooley. "One is to promote the completion of the alcohol fermentation, another is to encourage the malolactic fermentation. Stirring the lees also adds flavor to the wine."

Stirring the lees helps to complete the fermentation by re-suspending the yeast from the bottom of the barrel back into the fermenting wine. "If the yeast settle to the bottom, they pile up and are not in contact with the wine," he says. "The completion of the primary fermentation and depletion of sugar is important so the wines are stable before they are bottles, meaning they won't keep fermenting.

He stirs the lees until about mid-winter or until the completion of the malolactic fermentation. He prefers to do it this way so that he can bottle his wines without filtering them. "Only very small producers can even consider bottling without filtering," he says. "The reason I don't want to filter my wine is pretty simple: it tastes better that way. Unfiltered wine retains more of the the vineyard characteristics. In the Edna Valley Chardonnay, this means you'll taste more melon and pineapple. In the Bien Nacido Chardonnay, it means you'll get strong stone fruit flavors of peaches and nectarines."

Stirring the lees also helps to release the esters and essential oils found in the yeast cells. "So much of the character of Chardonnay comes from the barrel, the yeast, and the way the lees are stirred," explains Dooley. "Stirring the lees is such an important part of my winemaking process that I look forward to doing it -- and tasting the results when the Chardonnay is bottled."

When Tasting, the Temperature's the Thing
by Stephen Ross Dooley

Most wine drinkers know a thing or two about what temperature wine should be. We're told that white wine should always be chilled and red wine should always be room temperature. Sometimes, though, there's a little more to it than that.

It is always unfortunately to order wine in a restaurant and have it served at the incorrect temperature. This doesn't necessarily mean that the Cabernet is served on ice or that the Sauvignon Blanc is heated and put into a mug. Often it means just the opposite: that the whites are too cold, and the reds are too warm.

But why is this a big deal? If white wines are too cold, the aromas and flavors simply don't come out of the wine. If the reds are too warm, your palate may be overwhelmed by the alcohol and you won't experience some of the more subtle aspects. Try to keep all white wines you drink between 45 and 50 degrees, except sparkling wines, which should be served ice cold in chilled flutes. For reds, 58 degrees is just about right, with 65 degrees being the upper range of temperatures you should try.

If you find that you've been served a white win that's just too cold, have the waiter set the bottle on the table rather than in an ice bucket until it warms up a bit. You can also wrap your hands around the bowl of the glass to warm it as you drink. Similarly, if the red wine you've ordered is a bit warm, ask for an ice bucket and give it a quick chill, being careful not to over chill it.

When you're not comfortable asking your waiter for an ice bucket for your red wine for fear of not appearing to be the wine aficionado that you are, or you don't want to hurt your hosts' feelings, just drop a small piece of ice in the glass. The water will have a minimal effect and the ice cube is virtually invisible.

If you've never experienced the difference between wines with proper or improper temperatures, simply try it at home. Over chill and under chill a few reds and whites, and taste them. Then, try the wines at the correct temperature. It should be obvious what you miss when the wines are too cold or too warm.

Stephen Ross Dooley's Most Special Release

On Sunday, December 3, Steve, his wife Paula and son Liam welcomed Clare Elizabeth Dooley (vintage 2000) into the family. The baby girl weighed in a t 7 lbs, 6 oz. Both mom and baby are doing fine.